Split Chain

[Monica]

Can anyone out there in InTatters explain to me how to do a split chain?
I'd also like an explantion of where and why a split chain is used instead of a regular chain.
Thanks in advance for your help.
~M

[lilome]

I use split chains when I want to climb out of a round instead of the cut and tie method.

There are some great instructions on Jane Eborall's pattern page under Tips and Techniques.

http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~nickeb/

[Ridgewoman]

Can anyone out there in InTatters explain to me how to do a split chain?
I'd also like an explantion of where and why a split chain is used instead of a regular chain.
Thanks in advance for your help.
~M

Also, you might want to check out Jon Yusoff's blog. She's a member of Intatters. Between Jane, Marie and Jon; I finally was able to do a split chain. It is another way to climb out besides using a split ring and a mock picot...:cool:

[TeresaW]

Here is one of the first sites that I found to do a split chain. This was written by Betty Alderson and I found it to be very clear. I'm certainly glad that Pete has kept in on the site although Betty has been gone for several years.

http://www.snowgoose.cc/friv/NearFarSplitChain.htm

Hope this helps to give you just another source. Marie's method is very good as well and of course Jane's explanations and drawings exceptionally clear.

I believe that Sharon Briggs may also have instructions on her site http://www.gagechek.com/slb/ and includes a video as well.

[Lynn]

I thought I learned this through Sharon Briggs' site, but I just checked there and the split chain and split ring sections are still under construction. I wonder if she is redoing her site? If you don't find just exactly that A-HA spark in any of the other sites mentioned here, do a Google search for split chain instructions.

It is used in conjunction with mock picots and split rings to climb out of one round into another. This bypasses the cut and tie step and eliminates the need to hide ends, which can also save a bit of time. Very handy and well worth the time to learn it.

After checking the sites, if you still have problems, post again, and we'll do our best to sort you.

That said, I'll tell you this. I spent about an hour one day in front of my computer and just kept at it till I got it. The split ring is actually easier for me to do. I thought that knowing how to do split rings meant that the split chain would be a snap to learn. Not really, not for me, anyway. The tricky bit was in figuring out just how much thread to leave to begin the second half of the chain. Oh, and once the stitch is formed, leave it alone. These stitches don't like to be fooled with once they are sitting on the thread. Hope this helps.

[Sewicked]

Two tips from my own learning curve on split chains: use thread with a tight twist (like Olympus) not something loose (like perle). Make the thread much shorter than you think it should be. It will stretch, not just more than you think but a lot more than you think it will.

[Tammy]

I have to agree with Arlene about having the core thread shorter than you think. I believe I have at times used about half to three-quarters the length of what the finished chain looks like it needs.

[PattyD]

There is also another alternative. The issue is that the first row (that usually needs a split ring) ends at the end of the chain and the next row starts in the middle of the last chain of the first row. With a little foresight, you can start the first row in the middle of the first chain (using a paperclip to hold on to as you start the chain with the continuous thread method (CTM). When you get to the end of the first row which will now end with half a chain, you simply make a join and continue on to the second row. This won't work as well for any more rows that start in the middle, but handles 2 row quite nicely.

Patty

[BlueDode]

I use "Dora Young Knots" technique to make the double stitches in the "bridge" part -- Teri Duesenbury (?spelling) has instructions for Dora Young Knots in her Butterflies book as I recall: since I typically tat so there's a right and wrong side to my tatting, I've learned to make these knots backwards from Teri's instructions so I can make a double stitch (a Dora Young Knot) from either the right or wrong side of my tatting. BTW: Dora Young patented her knots: she used them for shuttle thread joins (so do I). They look just like a double stitch. I use them for bridging so I don't have to remember another technique.

I've seen bridges / split chains used only with "false picots" to segue from one row to the next, without cutting either the ball or shuttle thread (just like knitting and crochet patterns do). Most tatting patterns are written that you cut and tie ends between rows - it's not fun hiding those ends.

To apply the bridging technique to most patterns, you may need to change them: it doesn't apply in all situations.

That said, false picots can be created without split chains: typically these are used on patterns that start with an initial ring: you create the false picot to "bridge" out of the initial ring to the next row. There are probably websites -- there are books --that show this false picot technique, and it is relatively easy to understand.

Now, imagine positioning a false picot on a chain, instead of the initial ring: that's where the "bridging" concept comes in: you tat the chain up to the point of where you want the false picot. Then, it get's tricky:
1. join the shuttle thread where the chain ends up (the point where the pattern might say join: cut and tie ends... at the end of a row), allowing a core thread length a bit shorter that you think you need -- see the other posts above
2. "back tat" or make Dora Young knots from that join backwards (or, from the opposite side of the tatting if it works better), until you work the shuttle thread back to where the ball thread left off. Now, both shuttle and ball threads are ready to form that false picot to "bridge" to the next row -- check the websites above for specifics.

If you want I can look at some of my books to find which ones show these techniques -- let me know: the websites mentioned above may be as much or more help than the books.

I know it may sound as clear as mud, so: Good luck!

[Sharon]

There are demos for how to do a split chain on my web site (http://www.gagechek.com/slb/).There are 2 sets of demos. The original set are animations (http://www.gagechek.com/slb/demo/demo.html) suitable for dial up connections and they include Ring, Chain, Split Ring and Split Chain. The second set are wmv files (http://www.gagechek.com/slb/demo/media/index.html) which are too large to be viewed on a dial up connection and include only Ring and Chain videos. You can view the animations using either dial up or high speed. There are no plans to add additional videos at this time so hubby has designated those links as under construction.

[PattyD]

One thing that has not been mentioned that may help you in your quest to master a split chain, is to learn how to tat over a plastic ring. Tatting over a plastic ring uses exactly the same skills as a split chain does, with the added benefit of having one part of the process a stiff ring that doesn't wiggle around.

[Marty]

Epiphany! I just looked at your animation for split chain, Sharon. This is much easier than what I've been doing. I can hardly wait to try it out!

[jujubean123]

I cannot get this SPLIT CHAIN in my head-I swear I have looked at all the demo's out there. Why can I not get this in my head? Does anyone no of a video out there that will show it. I'm doing Martha Ess's Tea is for Tatting and I just can't grasp the split chain. VERY FRUSTRATING.

[jujubean123]

YEA for me I finally did it-----it's been weeks of trying and I finally did it 3 times already today----------I didn't think I would even be able to do a split chain.

[Deedee]

I used Sharon's site a while back, and thanks, Sharon!

It was hard for me, until I sort of thought about it: joining 2 shuttles, first part is like a regular ring, then the second shuttle you do a "blanket stitch" as you would in embroidery; you don't have to do the little flip thing.