Keep doilies from ruffling

[skerkow]

When I make doilies, they always seem to bunch up (ruffle) by about the 3rd round. Sometimes I can iron them flat, but usually there is some overlap of rings when I do that.
Does anyone know what I am doing wrong? I sometimes think I need to cut down on the number of rings, but usually I don't realize that until I am pretty far into the round that bunches. :blush:

[PattyD]

One thing that can affect the size of a round is the size of the joining picots. Depending on the thread and the pattern, over sized joining picots can act like springs and push rings apart which makes the round larger than intended. Large joining picots can also make the work floppy, (my biggest complaint!).

Another thing to think about is the tension on your chains. Most tatters have a slightly different tension on the chains than on their rings. The difference can go either way, either the rings are tighter than the chains or vice versa. Take a close look at the DS on your rings and chains to see if they are about the same size and tension. Chains can usually accommodate whatever size the rings dictate by curving more or less. But in your case, the length of the outer chains would seem to be less than the next round needs, so the rings on the following round bunch up and ruffle. So I suspect your chains are tight enough to make make them too small a size for the next round to fit comfortably. That could be because the joining picots are too big, or the rings are much looser than the chains. I have know tatters who choke their chains down the least amount space possible. That distorts the pattern because it doesn't let the size of the thread determine the size of the DS and it's not very attractive.

Are your rings closed completely? Leaving space at the base of a ring effectively makes it larger.

Check the picture that accompanies the pattern, if there is one, and check the tension of the stitches, the size of the picots, and the closeness of the joins. If the joined elements seem to be just touching each other, then the joining picot was very small so that it is just big enough to allow a join.

Remember that the size of the rings is the determining factor of the size of a round. Chains can usually accommodate whatever size the rings dictate. Changing the number of rings is a pretty major alteration of a pattern and I would only do it as a last resort (and if I think the pattern is wrong). I would increase the number of DS in the chains rather than change the number of rings.

[skerkow]

Thank you SO much for so much WONDERFUL information!!! This is a fabulous reply.
I did wonder about if I was pulling my chains too tight when I do them - it's a natural part of my technique to give them a quick tug at the end, before I move on to the next ring. I also will keep an eye on my joining picot size. The only problems I see with a couple of your suggestions are that I don't neccessarily know, as I'm doing a row, which will be a joining picot for the next round, so maybe I have to read ahead on the pattern a bit. Also, as far as adjusting the number of DS in the chain, is that I'm usually half way around the row before I realize that it's starting to bunch up!! I hate to start over at that point, but in the interest of having a decent finished project, I guess sometimes that will have to happen!
Thank you again. I finally have some answers!!:smile:



One thing that can affect the size of a round is the size of the joining picots. Depending on the thread and the pattern, over sized joining picots can act like springs and push rings apart which makes the round larger than intended. Large joining picots can also make the work floppy, (my biggest complaint!).

Another thing to think about is the tension on your chains. Most tatters have a slightly different tension on the chains than on their rings. The difference can go either way, either the rings are tighter than the chains or vice versa. Take a close look at the DS on your rings and chains to see if they are about the same size and tension. Chains can usually accommodate whatever size the rings dictate by curving more or less. But in your case, the length of the outer chains would seem to be less than the next round needs, so the rings on the following round bunch up and ruffle. So I suspect your chains are tight enough to make make them too small a size for the next round to fit comfortably. That could be because the joining picots are too big, or the rings are much looser than the chains. I have know tatters who choke their chains down the least amount space possible. That distorts the pattern because it doesn't let the size of the thread determine the size of the DS and it's not very attractive.

Are your rings closed completely? Leaving space at the base of a ring effectively makes it larger.

Check the picture that accompanies the pattern, if there is one, and check the tension of the stitches, the size of the picots, and the closeness of the joins. If the joined elements seem to be just touching each other, then the joining picot was very small so that it is just big enough to allow a join.

Remember that the size of the rings is the determining factor of the size of a round. Chains can usually accommodate whatever size the rings dictate. Changing the number of rings is a pretty major alteration of a pattern and I would only do it as a last resort (and if I think the pattern is wrong). I would increase the number of DS in the chains rather than change the number of rings.

[Judy]

Skerkow,
At the suggestion implied in a Celtic Tatting book, I've do a set of test rings and chains to check my tension, especially if its a new thread. Too loose, and as PattyD said, its floppy and won't hold its shape. Too tight and the ds's look bunched, crowded, not flat and snug on the core thread. After some practice, I can tell when I feel of the rings if they feel too loose or too tight.