What is the best way to store tatting?

[Tarie]

HI I have a friend who told me that plastic bags degrade the tatting over time. :ohmy: Is this true? If so how should I store the tatting? I don't want it to be damaged. thanks

[PattyD]

The best way to store tatting is to use it! If you make something, use it. If it's really some of your best work, at least frame it. Framing should have the glass not touching the tatting, that's what a mat is for, to keep the glass off the work and let it breathe. Under the right (wrong!) conditions, moisture can condense inside a frame on the glass. If the framed work never touches the glass, it won't come in contact with the condensation.

For long term storage, archival materials have non-reactive compositions and can be quite expensive. For daily use, sandwich bags should be just fine. They do keep out the dust and damp and that's a benefit. Handling your laces transfers oils from your hands which is much more likely to damage the tatting than the plastic is. After 50 or 100 years, the plastic may not do quite so well LOL!. So it all depends on how you value the work and how long you want to protect it.

All that being said, if you wash and block your pieces before you store them, they will be much more likely to survive without damage. Do not starch before storing. Starch can attract critters that like to eat tatting! And starch can yellow.

[Susan B T]

I agree with Patty... use it. A special piece can be framed with acid free matting. If framed keep out of heat and direct sunlight... you can get glass that has UV protection in it.
Layer pieces not in use in acid free tissue, in a box. Things you do not use.....
wash once a year so it does not dry rot....

[Tarie]

Hmm this is good advice but framing is expensive. I have several cross-stitch projects I couldn't afford to frame also. I'll think on it.

[Ridgewoman]

Hmm this is good advice but framing is expensive. I have several cross-stitch projects I couldn't afford to frame also. I'll think on it.

[SIZE="4"]Yes, framing is expensive. If you want to store the pieces, go with the archival tissue and archival boxes. They are reasonable in price.

I have only framed very special pieces; and, I have a person with those skills and mat-board, frames in the house. Even with her price breaks, it is still not inexpensive!

The last counted cross-stitch piece I had framed as a gift to my cousin was $56 at a shop I trusted, in CA. She used archival mat-board and spacers; and I ordered special glass. The piece was about 11 x 14 and took forever to work! LOL I wanted to make sure it was properly mounted and preserved after all that work ~ I've yet to tat anything that was special enough to frame.

The largest piece is a tatted table runner and not likely to frame that; but, gave it to my daughter in an archival box with archival tissue and told her to keep it in that when not in use! That represented YEARS of work (I'm slow) as it is 20 + inches by five feet! Each motif was the size of a quarter ~ I must have been MAD to do that one! LOL

Bev

[Tarie]

Where do I get the special box and tissues? About how much will it cost?

[wezyus]

The best storage system is to use, expose or decorate it at ur place n feel the happiness of it beautiness n whats more, u will get many appreciations from others.

[Tarie]

I have two small kids and two cats. If I put it out everywhere it would get destroyed.

[wezyus]

I have two small kids and two cats. If I put it out everywhere it would get destroyed.

So u hve to store it till the kids grows up ..am sorry...dont know any other storage methods .....thnks

[Imoshen]

My local Micheals Crraft store sells archival photo storage boxes that are acid-free. Depending on the size of the box you want their prices were ranging from $5-$75. One of the great things about Micheal's is that they always have a coupon for 40% off one item in the weekly Sunday paper. You can even get the coupon online every once in a while or in the store itself they have flyer's with the coupon included.:thmbup:

[Lynn]

My sister-in-law once showed me a stack of crocheted doilies (some well over 50 years old) that she had from her grandmother. As far as I remember, she simply had them tucked inside a pillow case that was then folded over. They were in very good shape.

[Susan B T]

Storing in natural fabric is good... just remember they need moisture reintroduced into them so they do not dry rot.....

[bctoadlover]

I visited the Dugald Costumer Museum in Manitoba Canada a few years ago. They had not acid free tissue they used but ph balanced tissue and they kept their archived clothing in a dark room in drawers and the only lights they used were very dim so as not to deteriorate the clothing.

I also came across an article once about photographs having their own ph balance especially polaroids and that the ph balanced would not alter them but that some papers which are acid free are not necessarily ph balanced and could deteriorate them. The recommendation was unless one knew the acid free was in deed ph balanced to store them un mounted.

This was yikes 20 years ago so I cannot say what the so called archival quality 'label' really means today and if it means anything other than to sell paper that is in fact not desireable because in ignorance it is no ph balanced. I would have to do research that is not a priority for me right now.

I only know what I know.

[bctoadlover]

Another memory came. If an antique article or one that was wanting to be kept for many years was to be washed, the Dugald Costume Museum had a special soap that did not leave damaging residue that could cause a deterioration or discoloration in the article laundered.

All articles were handled with 100 percent cotton gloves probably laundered in the same 'safe' soap.

One day I shall return to visit the museum. The exhibit at that time was curiously on lace!!!!!

Flash pictures of course can not be taken because light destroys. But I seem to recall maybe some postcards I am not sure.

[PattyD]

The museum was probably using Orvus, which technically is not a soap but a wetting agent, which means it release the surface tension of water and allows the water to penetrate the fibers of the item being cleaned and let any foreign matter float away.

The way I learned to wash lace, Orvus for really dirty stuff, otherwise just water until the item is as clean as it can get. Be willing to drink the last rinse water! (Meaning the water has nothing else in it.)