how to hold 3 double needles

[Sherongb]

I also do hats on a 16 inch circular and add in a second circular needle when I am decreasing for the crown. Less needles to loose, I don't end up pulling one needle out thinking it's the needle without stitches on it, then have to pick all those stitches up again.

[Tammy]

Suncatcher I'm glad the link is of help to you. It is Sheron's hard work in making the lesson so useful that is great. I just put the link up so it is easier for others to find it.

[Sherongb]

It is rewarding that people find the class still of use. When I wrote it Cat Bordhi had published Socks Soar on 2 Circular Needles, which covered 1 sock at a time and many on the Socknitters list were trying to figure out how to do 2 at a time. I got it and shared it with others. It was designed for a toddler sock for a couple of reasons. The main one was that it was being released one lesson each week and we wanted (Mary Moran who ran Socknitters at the time and I) something that people could get finished in that time. After that others published the technique in books and online. Then came magic loop and figuring out how to cast on for that.

[LaurieE]

I tried using dpns and that was a disaster. I discovered the Magic Loop method and toe up socks. It made sock knitting so much easier. I even use the Magic Loop method for hats, mittens, anything that is done in the round.

[BlueDode]

As everyone says, one only needs to hold the two needles they are working with at one time: one or more needle just hangs.

Some people I know prefer bamboo to steel/aluminum needles when knittng socks, because they don't slide out as easily. I have enough tension in my work that this usually isn't much of a problem.

That said, the loose needle(s) can affect the ones you are holding. As I recall, I want the far end of the needle in my dominant (right) hand ON TOP OF the end of the needle that is not in either hand: it is easier to manipulate (for me) this way. And, I think the far end of the needle in my non-dominant (left) hand works better for me if it is BELOW the end of the needle not it either hand: I end up switching needle orientation each time I finish knitting off one needle, but hey, it "floats my boat". Not sure if this depends on if you knit English or continental style -- I knit continental most of the time. Try repositioning the ends of the "free" needle to see what you prefer -- I'm going by memory here: just finished doing some of this the other day.

You might check out YouTube to see if there is some video of circular knitting with double pointed needles to check out what others do.

[Holly Ann]

Well, after about 4 tries, I'm proud to say I have 2 or so rows of stiches on 3 needles. I'm glad they "firmed" up. The first row or so...whew... those needles were floppy. Now they just stay as a triangle. Thanks for your help everyone. This is my first project at knitting in over a year.

[Tammy]

Holly that is wonderful news!!!!

[Lynn]

Congratulations, Holly. You'll get more comfortable with all those needles in no time at all.

Tammy and Holly, there is a wonderful video demo of turning the heel using a heel flap here. I have used knittinghelp.com to teach several people to knit when my wrist was broken and I couldn't do any knitting myself. This is a great site for help with all kinds of things form the very basic to advanced knitting.

BlueDode, thank you for mentioning continental verses English method. I find continental knitting really helps me see the work when using four or five needles. I started using this method several years because of arthritis. Once I got used to it, I found it more relaxing, less stressful on joints, and much faster than English style.

[Tammy]

Thanks Lynn!

I use Knitting Help all the time I don't know why I didn't think to look up the heel flap thingy there. I will be checking it out.

I knit German/continental/picker style. I can knit Portugese style but haven't practiced it enough to get comfortable with it. It is on my to-do list though.

If I have my 3 needles with stitches on them like this: /_\ my working yarn is at the juncture of the purple and red corner. I have my purple needle resting on top of the red, blue on top of the purple, red on top of blue. This is also their position when I am knitting off from them so my new needle and stitches are in between the juncture of the needle I am working off from and the one I just finished. For me this is the easiest for me to keep that area tight and not ladder. I have now started doing the wonderful hint of knitting the three from the next needle. That works fantastic as each time around your needle juncture is in a different location as it kind of spirals (for lack of a better word) those locations. Naturally you do have to have your true end and beginning of the row marker in, I imagine we all do that any way.

[Sherongb]

Holly and all: If you really have a problem with twisting for the first few rows just work a couple of rows back and forth then use the tail from your long tail cast on to sew those couple of rows up. Or leave them unsewn and you won't have to worry if your cast on is stretchy enough.